How to use the aromatic fragrance wheel with essential oils

Do you want to know the basics of fragrance creation? Read below to help understand the fragrance wheel, the roles of base, middle, and top notes, and the appropriate amounts of essential oils to use for each note. This is super useful for making beautiful smelling aromatherapy blends and low-tox natural perfumes.

Understanding the Fragrance Wheel

The fragrance wheel is a tool used to classify different fragrances and understand how they relate to each other. It divides scents into several main categories:

1. Floral: Sweet and flowery fragrances, like rose, jasmine, and lavender.

2. Citrus: Fresh and tangy scents, such as lemon, lime, and orange.

3. Fruity: Sweet and sometimes tangy, like apple, berry, and melon.

4. Green: Fresh and crisp, reminiscent of fresh-cut grass or leaves.

5. Herbal: Aromatic and green, like basil, sage, and rosemary.

6. Spicy: Warm and exotic, including cinnamon, clove, and ginger.

7. Woody: Earthy and rich, like sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli.

8. Oriental: Warm, exotic, and complex, featuring scents like vanilla, amber, and musk.

Notes in Perfumery

Perfumes are composed of three layers of scent, each with a specific role and duration:

1. Top Notes: The initial, light scents that you smell immediately upon application. These are often fresh and volatile. Common top notes include citrus oils (like lemon or bergamot) and light florals (like lavender).

2. Middle Notes (Heart Notes): These form the core of the perfume and emerge after the top notes dissipate. They are more complex and last longer. Common middle notes include herbs (like rosemary) and florals (like jasmine or rose).

3. Base Notes: The deep, long-lasting scents that remain after the top and middle notes have faded. They provide depth and longevity to the perfume. Common base notes include woody and resinous oils (like sandalwood, patchouli, and vanilla).

Creating a Balanced Perfume

To create a balanced and harmonious perfume, you'll need to use the right proportions of top, middle, and base notes. A common ratio is:

• 30% Top Notes

• 50% Middle Notes

• 20% Base Notes

Here's a basic formula for a 10 ml bottle of perfume:

1. Top Notes: 9 drops (30%)

2. Middle Notes: 15 drops (50%)

3. Base Notes: 6 drops (20%)

Step-by-Step Guide to Making Natural Perfume

Ingredients and Supplies:

• Essential oils of your choice (top, middle, and base notes)

• A 10 ml glass perfume bottle with a dropper

• A carrier oil (such as jojoba oil) or alcohol (such as vodka) as a base

• A small funnel (optional)

• A notepad and pen for recording your formula

Instructions:

1. Choose Your Essential Oils:

• Select one or two oils for each note category (top, middle, and base).

• Ensure the oils complement each other according to the fragrance wheel.

1. Mix the Essential Oils:

• Start by adding the base note oils to your perfume bottle.

• Next, add the middle note oils.

• Finally, add the top note oils.

1. Add the Carrier Oil or Alcohol:

• Fill the rest of the bottle with your chosen carrier oil or alcohol.

• If using a carrier oil, leave a little space at the top to allow for mixing.

1. Blend and Mature:

• Cap the bottle and shake it gently to mix the oils thoroughly.

• Allow the perfume to mature for at least 48 hours to let the scents blend and develop.

• For best results, let it age for up to 4 weeks.

1. Test and Adjust:

• After the perfume has matured, test it on your skin.

• Adjust the formula if necessary by adding a few more drops of essential oils to balance the scent.

1. Label and Enjoy:

• Label your perfume with the date and the essential oils used.

• Enjoy your personalized natural perfume!

By understanding the fragrance wheel and the roles of different notes, you can create beautiful, balanced natural perfumes tailored to your preferences.

Experiment with different combinations to find your signature scent! Don't forget to label and date it so you can keep making it!

Laura A'Bell